If looked after well
binoculars and telescopes can keep working for many decades, but
inappropriate cleaning can cause potentially expensive damage. We
have seen many badly scratched lenses and seized eyecups and focusing
wheels that could have been avoided by following a few simple rules
that will keep your kit in tip top condition.
Keep it clean.
Sand, fingerprints and dust. Time for a clean. |
Try not to clean
when out in the field.
This is usually when
damage is done. It is not always convenient to carry a full cleaning
kit in the field and the temptation to quickly remove a speck or
smear with a cloth or the hem of your shirt/scarf/skirt/pants can be
great, but resist!
Clean at room
temperature.
If
you try to clean when the lenses are too cold it is very hard to
successfully remove any greasy marks and you tend to just spread the
muck around.
All you need to keep clean. |
Use the right tools
for the job.
What you need is:
An air blower
A soft brush
A clean lens cloth
Lens cleaning fluid
Step 1:
Don't touch the lenses
yet! The first thing to do is remove any loose dust, sand or grit
without risking getting it embedded in the lens cloth or scratching
the lens coatings. The best way to do this is using a rubber bulb
type air blower with the lens facing downwards to allow any grit to
fall out. After you have done this use a soft brush to flick out any
bits that the blower didn't shift.
Step 2:
And
breathe... A quick huff or two on the lens for a coating of moisture
works a treat, then using a lens cloth to wipe round. Don't push too hard
with the cloth and fold it so that you have two or three layers under
your finger. If there is a single spot or fingerprint on the lens
then try to remove this without spreading it all over the lens.
Step 3:
Still
not clean? If there is still smearing on the lens then a little
cleaning fluid should sort it out, but don't spray it on to the lens
because it will be very difficult to remove it all and with some
older bin it can seep inside. Spray onto the lens cloth and
carefully apply it to the greasy area only, then another breath on
the lens and wipe with a bit of cloth without cleaning fluid on.
Salt.
Salt under the microscope. The hard, sharp-edged crystals can easily scratch lens coatings |
It gets everywhere. This is the worst enemy don't miss out on seeing something because you are trying to keep your bing it around it will find its way into eye cups, focusing wheels and hinges. While there is not a lot you can do about this keeping your rainguard on as much as possible will help and if you have twist-up style eye cups turn them down to keep sand out of the mechanism. When you get home follow step 1 to remove as much as possible without touching the lenses.
DEET.
Many
insect repellents contain the chemical N,N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide
(C12H17NO)
commonly known as DEET. This is a volatile chemical that is very
good at keeping the mozzies away but also attacks rubber armouring
and some plastics on binoculars and scopes. While there are some
places where the insects are so numerous and determined that DEET is
the only option, it is best kept away for you optics or the rubber
may begin to peel, bubble and crack with repeated contact.
Birdwatching optics are
designed to be used outdoors and sometimes they will get dirty, so
don't miss out on seeing something because you are trying to keep
your binoculars clean, but a little care goes a long way. Some
hardened twitchers regard filthy kit as a way of showing you are a
serious birder but this is no excuse for mistreating your gear and
there is a difference between well used and abused. If you look
after your optics they can last a lifetime.
Cley Spy